The plain Plain of Jars

The Plain of Jars

From Luang Prabang, we traveled onwards to Phonsavan. This was a last minute choice for ease of connectivity. We had wanted to try Pakse and Bolaven Plateau but it was too much of a hassle with the journey being too long and tiring. We walked around town and booked tickets to Phonsavan by minivan, which came up to around 75,000 to 80,000 kip per person. It was around an 8 hour journey by minivan. We left in the morning around 9 and reached Phonsavan in the evening. Along the way, the driver stopped a few times for restroom breaks and lunch. The minivan had an all girl group, a coincidence I guess, and everybody was discussing their various travels so far.

We reached Phonsavan at around 5.30 and made our way to Kong Keo Guesthouse. The town was extremely small, just a small strip of highway populated with a few guesthouses and shops. It was a 10 minute walk across the road from the minivan bus stand. Kong Keo had received good reviews from many travelers but when we reached there we were met with a rundown place with shabby rooms. Still for $8 I shouldn’t complain, I thought.

The evening was spent in scouting for tours to the Plain of Jars for the next day and of course looking for vegetarian options. Since there were not too many options we settled for the travel agency suggested by Lonely Planet, situated next to the YMCA. There are a variety of tours, each giving different options to see. The most popular is the one which includes a traditional whiskey making session and a Russian tank. The tour, priced at about 110,000 kip per person, included a guide as well as our lunch. We even bumped into a fellow Indian there, a rarity in Laos, who kept telling us that safety should be a priority here. Dinner was in a small eatery where we had noodle soup, which the man had tailored according to our vegetarian preferences.

The night became extremely chilly, which was quite unexpected, a bit later and we had to retreat to our room. I was in deep sleep when I was woken up at around 5 am with a loud crowing. Once he stopped I turned over and went back to sleep. Just as I was drifting back, he began again. This pattern was repeated a frustrating number of times and I realized that the fellow was as punctual as the snooze alarm on my cellphone. Every 15 minutes he would crow, reminding me not to oversleep. Finally, after managing a few more winks I woke up by 7.30.

The minivan taking us to the Plain of Jars was supposed to arrive at 8.45. Showered and dressed, we went for breakfast at the guesthouses’ sparse restaurant. There we saw two other girls who had come with us in our van, who had also checked in to Kong Keo. Apparently they had had a nightmarish experience with rats nibbling their food the entire night and they were waiting to check out. After hearing their tale we contemplated moving out, but thought that we would rough it out just the one more night left.

After breakfast we walked to the travel agency and in a few minutes we were on our way. We picked up a few more guests en route. It was not a far drive to Site I. Below is the board explaining the relevance of the site.

Frankly speaking I didn’t feel anything ‘mysterious’ about the Plain of Jars nor did I find myself being overawed. It was definitely a different landscape though, wide open with these lonely jars scattered all around. Our guide was nice man who explained the stories behind the jars quite well. We left for the second site, which was about a half an hour ride away. This was a smaller site and we finished touring it quickly.

By now it was pretty hot and I was getting hungry. Site III was thankfully not too far and we had delicious noodle soups here first before we moved on to see the jars. This site was the most beautiful of all, as every travel account promised, and we had to walk through a paddy field to reach it. We spent some time there taking pictures, looking at the green landscape around and then returned. On the way we stopped to see whiskey making and had a shot of it as well. After a brief stop to see a broken Russian tank we reached back and immediately set about booking tickets for our next destination.

Vang Vieng. Now this had not been an option previously since neither of us were interested in running into hordes of gawky youngsters high on dope after their tubing adventures. But we didn’t have a choice; Vang Vieng was the only place that was a convenient stopover on our way back to Vientiane in order to catch our flight home. We chose a minivan again, and the price was about 140,000 kip. Next we had dinner at a lovely Chinese restaurant. They understood our bits of Mandarin and gave us delicious vegetarian items, which we gorged on! We stopped to have natural icecream from the shop across. I chose taro while K/G chose durian. Thankfully it wasn’t chilly today and after a hot day we went to sleep quite exhausted.

Below: Taro and Durian icecream cubes mixed in the box on the right.

Onwards to the Plain of Jars

Just a short post to say that today was a complete rest day. After yesterday's gruelling exercise we needed to give our battered bodies a rest. So all we did was lounge around, sleep, eat and shop at the night market. And it was also a no bicycle day.

Also, so far in Luang Prabang, I was staying in the extremely nice Souksavat Guesthouse. The owner is a young guy, very helpful and sweet. The best thing about this place was that we had free wi-fi and that is the reason I could post regularly, giving day-to-day updates. But tomorrow morning a minivan will take me to Phonsavan to the land of the Plain of Jars. The end of 24 hour internet. But then I have travelled always without that luxury and so life goes on.

I had been biased towards the Plain of Jars thinking its like Stonehenge - just a cluster of stones standing around for which there is no explanation. But we ended up booking bus tickets to the same place because it was a convenient stopover on our way to Vientiane from where is our flight back to India. And now after reading up more about Phonsavan, the town itself, am kind of looking forward to the place.

Journey to Kuang Si on a bicycle

I have not known the meaning of true tiredness for a long time until today. But then bicycling 60km is not a joke. I even doubted if I was up to it. But K/G said we must give it a shot after our newer fitness levels and I thought yes we should. So we set off at around 8.45 am after a meagre breakfast of a baguette+jam+butter. We borrowed the same cycles from the same shop and the owner smiled as he recognised his regulars. He didn't know we were about to put his bicycles to a gruelling test.

We were headed to Kuang Si waterfalls, which has been variously described as magical and fairytale-like. Situated 30km away from the city centre, Lonely Planet says that the road is "gently undulating." We found that it is anything but.

It began fairly straight before the murderous climbs, treacherous inclines and breezy declines came round the many corners. We stopped many times along the way wheeling the bicycle up the steepest of inclines and using every muscle in our quadriceps to go up the others. The one good thing was that the roads were marvellously paved with not a single crack or pothole. Thankfully, the weather held up most of the way, being cool and cloudy. I almost gave up along the way thinking that I would not make it. And then I realized that I was not just about to do so easily.

We reached Kuang Si at around 12.00 pm, three hours later. Not bad timing. We also met a few other bikers along the way, giving us some consolation that we were not the only mad ones out there. A good noodle soup and a milkshake and plenty of water later we were fortified enough to get up and begin walking along the trails around the falls.

The falls themselves were tiered, a turquoise blue forming pools where people were frolicking. The color of the water made it look truly fairytale-like and magical and I felt like I was in some tropical paradise with palm fronds and dark green leaves drooping all over into the waters. We trekked up to the head of the falls, which took another 45 minutes or so and it was a steep climb. On the way down, a completely drunk woman with a group of kids kept calling out, "hello, hello!" annoyingly. We sat down for some time so we could lose her.

Two hours later we left for our excruciating journey back, but surprisingly it was faster. There were more downhills and we zoomed along happily with the wind flying in our flushed, sweaty faces. We made good time and reached in a little more than two and a half hours.

What I liked about the journey was the exhilaration of breezing down the declines, the little kids calling out "Sabaideeeee!" meaning welcome and all the people smiling at us. There was even a tourist group comprising elderly/middle aged people who egged us on "Bravo bravo!" But most of all it was the feeling of accomplishment. Aching knees and writhing calves apart, I felt I had done something I had never imagined I could do. Cycling 60km, on a non-mountain bike, had not been easy but it was truly an amazing experience. And yes, I would definitely go for something similar again.

Wats the magic

A good night's sleep restored my tired limbs and muddled senses. Since we had not planned on anything concrete today we took bicycles again and went around town. Visited a couple of Wats or temples. The highlight of the day was cycling all the way to Ban Pho, which is a village of weavers. The road was dusty and gravelly and full of inclines. Tiring fun and thoroughly enjoyable. I didn't see any weavers but on the way back I noticed a small boy perhaps around two or three years old along the side of the road. He was wobbling along with a half eaten apple in his hand when he suddenly lost his balance and fell. Fat tears immediately rolled down his cheeks and I could not help but stop and try to console him. But he didn't stop until his mother came running with a wide grin at me. She told me thanks and smiled at him and like a charm he stopped crying. Mother power.

After a bumpy ride with numerous stops to capture a glorious sunset over the Mekong along the way, we stopped at the Red Cross sauna and massage centre. At 10,000 kip (just over a dollar) for a sauna session it was well worth it. The proceeds go for charity and the sauna is enhanced with various herbs. We paid, changed into a sarong and then entered the sauna room, separate for men and women. A couple of women were already there and it was filled with swirling steam. I couldn't see a thing but I could make out an oblong wooden structure on the ground in the middle of two benches, which was extremely hot. I imitated the woman standing on the bench and felt safer.

I emerged after 20 to 25 minutes, refreshed, glowing and clean. Dinner was a tasty pizza at the Le Bon cafe with a free Pepsi thrown in. The server mistook my order and brought two pizzas and an additional Pepsi, so we ended up paying for the extra Pepsi but it was fine really. We bought an Orange cake from one of the cake stalls in the night market and walked back to the room.

One thing I noticed is that there is a ticket needed for anything and everything. From entering a Wat to crossing a rickety bamboo bridge to just see a few weavers at work. Well, I stopped at the bridge but entered a couple of Wats. The Buddha always beckons. Moreover, the wats all have a peaceful air that I drank in huge gulps. Peace is a rarefied commodity, especially once I go back to real life.

Well, a day well spent, not doing much and feeling like a dream after the exercise and the good food. Luang Prabang has indeed cast a spell.

Magic and mystery in Luang Prabang

Our bus tickets to Luang Prabang were booked. After a long wait, a van finally came to pick us up at our hotel. There was a further wait in the bus itself but at last it left around half an hour late. For the first time in my life I found myself not shivering in an AC bus as the temperature was just right. In fact I had to take off my sweater because I was feeling quite hot. I slept fitfully and surprisingly we reached here by 5 in the morning.

A freezing ride in a tuk-tuk later I sat around in the city centre waiting for guesthouses to open up. I noticed a few people beginning to show up and sitting on the pavements with cane bowls in their hands. I realized that it was time for the early morning ritual where monks from nearby monastery line up in silence to collect alms. I decided to wait and witness this ritual before I went searching for a place to stay.

After some time the monks came moving in a silent line. I clicked some blurry pictures in the early morning faint light. It was fascinating to watch but spirituality is lost in this mayhem of tourism as many people stood around eager to click pictures than just watch.

Some scouting around and I was ensconced in a guesthouse, which offered free wi-fi. But I later discovered that it was a very bad connection in the room. The day was spent in cycling around (15,000 kip a day) and discovering the town. Visited the palace and a temple at the top of some 200 steps. It was searingly hot in the afternoon and the only good thing was a lunch that concluded with strawberry jam crepe. Yum! Crepes are commonly found in many flavors and they make them quite well here. Well worth more than a sampling.

In the evening we roamed the night market, which was set up quite suddenly on the same road that we cycled along. I found the people again quite endearing as there was no calling out time and again pestering us to buy things and nobody harassing us. All in all a tiring and hot but quite a packed day.

As for the fabled magic of Luang Prabang, yes indeed I experienced it first hand. I met a guy from England who is teaching in China and who had taught in the same place that I had! Surprising because I taught in a very small town, which is hard to find even on a Chinese map. Small world. And just as magically as I met him on the bus to LP, he melted away into a early morning when we reached. I don't even know his name.

Although much more touristy than Vientiane the goodness of the people remain intact except for the tuk-tuk drivers who are a rowdy lot anywhere. The ones in Laos are however the best I have seen so far, much well-behaved than in other places. Hope to experience more of the magic tomorrow...

Bicycling it in Vientiane

The rain has finally tired itself out I think. Yesterday it poured the whole day with alternating strength. But I hired a bicycle for 10,000 kip (a little more than $1) for half a day and a blue poncho that says "Shower Attack." After equipping myself with these items I had lunch at a vegetarian restaurant run by a Buddhist, named Food for Healthy. It was a bit hard to find and food was a bit bland but it was good to have pure vegetarian food without fear of crunching on shrimps or rubbery beef. Later I cycled to Vat Sisaket, which is one of the most prominent temples here. Entry fees are minimal, being less than a dollar at 5,000 kip or so.

The temple was beautiful and I managed to take some photos through the drizzle. Next stop was Patuxay, which is a victory monument styled after L'Arc de Triomphe of Paris. Spent some time there and then came back into the unrelenting rains. New roads, a downpour and traffic are not good help for a visitor. I got lost, took a winding road but somehow managed to find the way back to Setthitharat with the help of some memory and my companion K/G who is extremely good with maps. It is not difficult to navigate this town but it takes time to get the hang of it thanks to inadequate road signs and an equally confounded Lonely Planet map.

Today, I decided its time to leave Vientiane and go to the more "magical" Luang Prabang. I didn't want to waste the whole day in a bus so I went around trying to find the one bus that leaves in the night at 7.30. After getting lost again and my behind afflicted with permanent pins and needles from sitting on the hard seat of the bicycle, I finally chanced upon a travel agency that had the right information. Every other agency I had asked were not sure about the existence of the evening bus and some others asked me to go straight to the North Bus Station where I could enquire and book tickets. Thankfully, the Alliance Travel Agency booked the tickets and even said that the bus would come and pick us up at the hotel. Great.

So far I loved the fact that nobody honks here even if we are riding doddering bicycles. They patiently wait and give a polite honk if it takes too long. Cars stick to their lanes, pretty much, and there is no rush at an intersection to be the first to go across. Right of way is given to the other person and everybody seems to have patience and smiles in abundance.

So here I am, passing the last couple of hours in Vientiane, waiting to go to the cold North. Perhaps a coffee is in order now... Until the next post.

Vientiane: First Impressions

This latest trip was long due. Well, by my standards. Its been more than five months since I went anywhere and the travel bug had started biting badly. So here I am in Vientiane, the capital of Laos, which most people mistake for Lagos in Nigeria.

A sleepy town, its hard to believe that its a capital. I landed today morning after a hop, skip and jump from Bangalore to Cochin by train, Cochin to Kuala Lumpur by Air Asia flight and then another Air Asia flight to Vientiane. One and a half days of travelling. But this place looks like it has been worth it. A land lost in time. People still not forgotten to smile. People respecting tourists and not harassing them. Such a different world.

I set out in the misty drizzle that had been steadily wetting the roads since the time I landed. After walking around a bit I had roasted banana off a street food stall and it was simply delicious. I know it might sound very simplistic and something that can be made easily at home. But this ambience can not be replicated anywhere - rain, smiles, newness and exploration.

Lunch was vermicelli noodles with vegetables in piping hot water and flavored with garlic, lime and tangy chillies. Washed down with strong, iced coffee. Just heaven. I continued walking but the rain still had not let up. So decided to sit in an internet cafe for sometime and send a couple of emails and update the blog when I can. The pictures of course will follow later in the form of a photoblog like Vietnam. I think that is fun, just posting pictures with captions. Gives a more vivid description of the place than words.

It is still drizzling and I have not seen or clicked anything today. And I don't what tomorrow brings either. But I can be assured that tomorrow will still greet me with smiles from the wonderful people here.

More from Vientiane whenever possible...